I usually eat breakfast alone. If that sounds lonely, a quick peek at Simply Breakfast can teach you that solo breakfasts are an art form- intimate, meditative moments where coffee and toast become the stuff of ceremony. (Sometimes solo breakfast is a floppy packet of microwaveable oatmeal, but i’m not going to go there).

My normal routine is as follows: I turn on the coffee machine and make a cup of coffee, which I drink while making breakfast (oatmeal, rye toast, or yogurt, or a hybrid I like to call “toastmeal” or “toastgurt”). When I sit down to table there’s half a cup of coffee left, and just enough time to enjoy before I make the mad dash to the bus stop.

The other morning, though, I wanted something different. With two stale loaves of Zingerman’s challah on hand, it seemed a crime not to make French toast. But, I wasn’t sure where to begin, because my idea of French toast has evolved considerably since it sprang into existence on a plate in my parents’ kitchen. I didn’t want the kind of French toast that is essentially a piece of bread with an egg fried on the outside- I wanted the creme brulee French toast from my beloved (and now closed ) Cafe Mozart.

Sadly, this French toast is not that French toast*. It is, however, the perfect French toast for me right now. Made with half-and-half, it’s not quite as guilt inducing as the “Bell-less, Whistle-less Damn Good French Toast” from food52, and the recipe has enough (easy) steps that you feel like you’re actually making something special, not just dunking a slice of bread in some egg. Because the toast gets a last-minute bake in the oven, it ends up with crisp edges, which are a lovely contrast to the custardy interior. My first batch came out a little dry, so I recommend taking liberties with the soaking time, and adding plenty of maple syrup or fruit topping.

(*please tell me I did not just reference an Old Spice commercial while discussing French toast…)

French Toast

recipe adapted from Alton Brown, via foodnetwork.com
1 cup half-and-half
3 large eggs
2 tbsp honey, microwaved for 20 seconds
1/4 tsp salt
8 (1/2 inch) slices of stale challah, brioche, or good white bread
4 tbsp of butter

1. In a medium mixing bowl, whisk together the half-and-half, eggs, honey, and salt. I like to do this when the ingredients are all at room temp, aided by a quick jolt in the microwave (for the half-and-half) or a soak in warm water (for the eggs). Pour the custard into a pie plate.

2. Preheat the oven to 375F. Soak bread in the custard (at least 30 seconds per side, more if the bread seems too dry) then transfer to a cooling rack sitting in a sheet pan. Let it sit for 1-2 minutes, to let the bread absorb the custard.

3. Melt 1 tbsp of butter in a 10 inch skillet set over medium heat. Cook 2 slices at a time until golden, about 2-3 minutes per side. Remove them from the pan and place on a rack in the oven for 5 minutes. Repeat with all 8 slices, then serve with maple syrup.

1) Lemon Bars

2) Ginger Crackles

3) Irene Double Chocolate Mousse Cookies

1. Salted Caramel Bar from Xocolatl de David
www.xocolatldedavid.com, $9
To my knowledge, Xocolatl de David is still a one-man operation helmed by David Briggs, a CIA grad based in Portland, Oregon. I happened upon his Salted Caramel Bar at DeLaurenti, an Italian market in Seattle. It’s one of the best dark chocolate bars i’ve had in a while- in mirror-bright perfect temper and filled with a toothsome salted caramel (there are some great pictures on www.ourfoodshed.com.) If you want something savory, try the Almond & Pimenton bar (but be warned, the smoked paprika flavor is strong).

2. Bahlsen Contessa Minis
www.germandeli.com, $3.39 [currently out of stock]
I’m a long-time fan of Bahlsen’s Contessas, a seasonal sugar-crusted, chocolate-bottomed Lebkuchen. I used to think these gingerbread cookies were obscure, until I realized for three years running i’ve only been able to make one purchase before my usual sources run out of stock. Lately I prefer the mini Contessas to the full-sized. They’re great alongside a cup of coffee.

3. Chocolate Marshmallows from Zingerman’s
www.zingermans.com, $25
The chocolate marshmallows are the star of this half-chocolate, half-vanilla gift box. Made with Scharffen Berger cocoa and studded with chocolate chunks, they are hard to resist (I went through an entire bag in about two days). With a peppermint hot cocoa? Heaven. Looking for more flavors? Try Little Flower Candy Co. or Pittsburgh Marshmallow Factory.

4. Preserves from Blue Chair Fruit
bluechairfruit.com, $12+
Sometimes, cookbooks lead me to a food product. In this case, the unique flavors in Rachel Saunders’ massive The Blue Chair Jam Cookbook piqued my interest in her company, and i’m pleased to report that these preserves are as tasty as they look. If you’re looking to impress a preserves-lover, spring for a Jam Club subscription.

5. Ice Cream from Jeni’s Splendid Ice Creams
jenisicecreams.com, $12+
Jeni’s Splendid Ice Creams at Home was one of my top cookbook picks of the year. After working my way, pint by pint, through the Jeni’s selection at Plum Market and The Produce Station, I made a 3 hour pilgrimage to the scoop shop in Chagrin Falls, Ohio to try her holiday flavors. My personal favorite flavors? Black Forest, Brown Butter Almond Brittle, Brambleberry Crisp, and Lemon Blueberry Frozen Yogurt.

6. Delice de Pommard
www.dibruno.com, $14.99
I have no experience buying cheese online, but I am tempted to try it to get ahold of this mustard-coated, soft cow’s milk cheese from Burgundy. It was an October special at Zingerman’s which they’ve told me they’ll have again after the holidays.

7. Sour Cherry Spoon Fruit from American Spoon Foods
www.spoon.com, $8.50
Since many jams, jellies, and preserves are too sweet for my tastes, I was happy to find this tart cherry ‘spoon fruit.’ Made in Northern Michigan, this cherry-studded spread holds its own on strong flavored breads like rye and pumpernickel. I really want to try it on pancakes!

8. Pralus Barre Infernale Lait
chefshop.com, $19-22
When I asked a Zingerman’s staff member if I could try this chocolate bar, he said “are you sure? It’s dangerous.” He was right- one bite and I knew I couldn’t leave without one. The price tag is steep, but it’s a big bar- a 6.4oz brick of hazelnut-studded praline, coated in the same milk chocolate they use for their fantastic Melissa bars. If you like gianduja and want a slightly cheaper alternative, try Sperlari’s Zanzibar Gianduja Classico (pictured in this post from Serious Eats).

I was uneasy about the olive oil too. For a long time, I considered both vegan baking and gluten-free baking to be, well, inferior. Now, I think it’s more appropriate to say they are scary, particularly for someone who has never tried.

Now, pretend I had never mentioned olive oil. Does this pie look any different from your average buttery, lardy pie?

Not really. And while the crust certainly tasted differently, it was still a flaky, crisp, complement to the tart apple filling. To my genuine surprise, at a ten-person Thanksgiving dinner with one vegan in attendance, this was the pie everyone wanted, and it was the only dessert to be eaten in its entirety.

If you have never tried vegan baking, I have a few suggestions.
1) Start simple. Don’t pick the strangest, most tricked-out multi-flavor vegan cheesecake you can find.
2) Find a good recipe. Ask your vegan friends for cookbook recommendations, or find a blog/website that seems reputable. Don’t just pick the first thing you found on Google.
3) Don’t get discouraged. Just because one recipe turns out badly doesn’t mean you should forego all vegan baking. Give yourself some time to figure out what you like and how to use potentially unfamiliar ingredients.

I picked this recipe because I’ve had success with Isa Chandra Moskowitz and Terry Hope Romero’s recipes, and olive oil is more appetizing to me than vegan shortening and margarine products. I hope you enjoy it!

Vegan Apple Pie

adapted from Vegan Pie in the Sky
makes one 9-inch double crust pie

for the crust:
2.5 cups flour
3/4 tsp salt
2/3 cup olive oil (I used a mild tasting oil)
4 to 8 tbsp ice water
1 tbsp apple cider vinegar

1. An hour before you start, place the olive oil in a plastic container. Freeze until opaque and congealed (like melted sorbet).
2. In a large bowl, combine the flour and salt. Quickly add the oil by the tbsp, cutting it in with your fingers or a pastry cutter.
3. In a cup, combine the ice water and vinegar. Add 2 tbsp to the flour mixture and stir with a spoon or spatula. Add more water until the dough holds together in a soft ball.
4. Divide the dough into two disks. Between two sheets of wax paper, roll each disc out into a circle. Refrigerate until needed.

for the pie:
1 recipe olive oil crust
6 cups peeled granny smith apples, sliced about 1/4 inch thick (about 3 lbs)
1/3 cup brown sugar
1/3 cup white sugar
1 tsp ground cinnamon
1/2 tsp ground ginger
1/8 tsp ground cloves
3 tbsp flour
pinch of salt

for the topping:
1/2 tsp ground cinnamon
2 tbsp sugar
2 tbsp plain almond milk (or other nondairy milk)

1. Preheat the oven to 425F. Fit half the pie dough into a 9 inch pie pan (I used a metal, disposable pan).
2. Combine all the filling ingredients in a large mixing bowl. Add the filling to the prepared pie shell. Cover with the top crust and trim/flute the edges.
3. Mix together the cinnamon and sugar for the topping. Brush the top of the pie with almond milk and sprinkle with the cinnamon sugar. Using a sharp knife, make a few slits in the top of the pie to vent steam.
4. Bake the pie for 25 minutes, then lower the heat to 350F and bake for 30-35 more minutes. If the pie is browning too quickly, loosely cover with foil. When done, it should be well browned and bubbling thickly. Place the pie on a cooling rack and cool for 1.5 hours before serving.

The memory of those latter pumpkin breads made me wary of online recipes (though this no-knead version looks a tempting), so I turned instead to The Beekman 1802 Heirloom Cookbook (a current favourite from my collection), which has a Pumpkin Cheese Bread within the fall side dishes. I am thrilled with how it turned out. Can you imagine this toasted and topped with Sour Cherry Spoon Fruit or pepper jelly? Or french-toasted with sauteed apples? Or as a vehicle for mopping up cranberry sauce? Or as the base of a Thanksgiving leftovers sandwich? I certainly can (and have).

Some notes: much of this bread’s flavor comes from the cheese. I used sharp cheddar, but I think medium would be a better choice if you don’t want to lose pumpkin flavor. The cayenne is subtle, so increase it if you want more spice. Check the loaf a bit over halfway through the baking time- if the top is browning too much, cover it with foil.

Next time, I think I’m adding jalapenos.

Pumpkin Cheese Bread

adapted from “The Beekman 1802 Heirloom Cookbook”

3 1/2 cups all purpose flour, more if needed
1 tbsp light brown sugar
2 1/4 tsp (1 envelope) rapid-rise yeast
1 1/4 tsp table salt
1/8 tsp cayenne pepper
1 cup water
3/4 cup canned unsweetened pumpkin
1 cup (4oz) medium or sharp yellow cheddar cheese
1 tbsp unsalted butter, softened (for coating the loaf pan)
1 large egg yolk beaten with 1 tsp water

1. In a large bowl, mix together the flour, brown sugar, yeast, salt, and cayenne pepper. Add the water, pumpkin, and cheese, then stir until combined.
2. Turn the dough out onto a floured work surface. Knead until it forms a smooth ball, adding more flour if necessary. (It’s okay if it’s a little sticky- you just don’t want it impossibly stuck to the counter). Transfer the dough to a lightly oiled bowl. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight.
3. The next day, butter a 9×5 inch loaf pan and transfer the dough to a lightly floured work surface. Gently shape the dough into a rectangle, then roll it into a cylinder and place seam-side down in the loaf pan. Cover loosely with a clean towel and let rise at room temperature until almost doubled in volume (1.25-2 hours, depending on your room temp.) While the dough is rising, preheat your oven to 375F.
4. With a sharp knife, slash the loaf down the center. Brush with the egg wash. Bake for 50 minutes, or until the bottom of the loaf sounds hollow when tapped. Remove the bread from the pan and cool on a rack.

Camp Taco

Mix and Primavera

Hot & Hot Fish Club

Rhubarb, Strawberry & Cherry Preserves

adapted from Krissoff’s “Canning for a New Generation” and Saunder’s “The Blue Chair Jam Cookbook”
Yield: about five 8oz jars

1 pound rhubarb, cut into 1/2 inch cubes
1 pound rinsed and hulled strawberries, diced
1 pound bing cherries, stems removed
2 cups sugar
1/4 cup fresh squeezed lemon juice

1. Prepare for water-bath canning. Sterilize the jars and keep them hot in the canning pot. Put the flat lids in a heat-proof bowl. Put a small plate in the freezer.
2. Put the rhubarb, strawberries, sugar, and 1/2 cup water in a wide 6 to 8 quart preserving pan or heavy bottomed pot. Cook over medium-high heat, stirring often, until the juices just cover the fruit (10-15 minutes). Pour into a fine mesh strainer set over a large bowl and stir the fruit gently to drain off juice. Return the juice to the pan and transfer the fruit to the bowl.
3. Add the cherries to the pan. Bring to a boil over high heat, then decrease the heat slightly and cook until the cherries are shriveled and the syrup is a dark rose color (5-8 minutes). Remove the pan from the heat.
4. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the cherries from the liquid to a fine mesh strainer set over the bowl of cooked rhubarb and strawberries. Using a ladle, press down on the cherries to get all the juice out of them, then discard the skins and pits.
5. Return the strawberries, rhubarb, and cherry juice to the pan and add the lemon juice. Bring to a simmer and cook, stirring frequently, until a small dab of the jam spooned onto the chilled plate and returned to the freezer for a minute becomes somewhat firm, about 15 minutes. Skim off as much foam as possible, then remove from the heat and stir gently to distribute the fruit in the liquid.
6. Ladle hot water from the canning pot into the bowl with the lids. Using a jar lifter, remove the sterilized jars from the canning pot, carefully pouring the water from each one back into the pot, and place them upright on a folded towel. Drain the water off the jar lids.
7. Ladle the hot jam into the jars, leaving 1/4 inch headspace. Wipe the rims of the jars with a damp paper towel, then put a flat lid and ring on each jar, adjusting the ring so it’s finger-tight. Return the jars to the canning pot, making sure the water covers the jars by at least 1 inch. Bring to a boil and boil for 5 minutes. Using a jar lifter, remove the jars to a folded tower and leave undisturbed for 24 hours. Check the seals, then store.

Brioche

adapted from Joanne Chang’s “Flour: Spectacular Recipes from Boston’s Flour Bakery + Cafe”

2 1/4 cups (315g) all purpose flour
2 1/4 cups (340g) bread flour
3 1/4 tsp active dry yeast
1/2 cup + 1 tbsp (82g) sugar
1 tbsp kosher salt
1/2 cup (120g) cold water
5 eggs
1 cup + 6 tbsp (310g) unsalted butter, at room temperature, cut into 10-12 pieces
1 egg + 1 tsp water, for egg wash

1. In a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook, combine the all purpose and bread flours, yeast, sugar, salt, water, and 5 of the eggs. Beat on low speed for 3-4 mins, until the ingredients come together. Beat on low for an additional 3-4 minutes. The dough will be stiff and seem dry.

2. On low speed, add the butter 1 piece at a time, mixing after each addition until it disappears into the dough. Continue mixing on low for about 10 minutes, making sure the butter gets thoroughly incorporated.

3. Turn the speed to medium and beat for 15 minutes, or until the dough becomes sticky, soft, and somewhat shiny. It should slap the sides of the bowl and mostly clear the bottom. If the dough seems wet and loose, add a few tbsp of flour until it comes together. If it breaks into pieces when you pull at it, continue to mix until the gluten develops more. It is ready when you can gather it together and pick it up in one piece.

4. Place the dough in a large bowl or plastic container and cover with plastic wrap, pressing the wrap directly onto the surface of the dough. Proof in the refrigerator overnight (at least 6 hours).

5. Liberally butter two 9×5 inch loaf pans (or line them with parchment). Divide the dough in half and press each piece into a 9 inch square of even thickness. Facing the square, fold down the top 1/3 toward you, then fold up the bottom 1/3 (like a letter). Press to join these layers. Turn the dough over and place it, seam side down in one of the pans. Repeat with the other piece of dough.

6. Cover the loaves with plastic wrap and proof for 4-5 hours, until the loaves have nearly doubled in size. It may take less time if your room is very warm. The loaves should have risen to the rim of the pan.

7. Position a rack in the center of your oven and preheat to 350F. Whisk the remaining egg with 1 tsp of water (I usually strain this, or mix with an immersion blender to avoid chunks of egg white). Gently brush the tops of the loaves with the beaten egg.

8. Bake for 35-45 minutes, until the loaves are golden brown. Cool in the pans on wire racks for 30 minutes (DO NOT SKIP THIS STEP. The dough is delicate and prone to ripping) then turn the loaves out of the pans and continue to cool on the racks.

Strawberry Peach Preserves

adapted from “Sarabeth’s Bakery: From my Hands to Yours”
4 lbs ripe peaches, peeled and cut into 1-inch chunks
8 cups strawberries, hulled and quartered lengthwise
7 cups sugar, divided
1/2 cup lemon juice

1. Mix the peaches and 3.5 cups sugar in a large, nonreactive saucepan. Cook over medium-low heat until the peaches soften and the sugar dissolves (5-10 minutes).

2. Add the strawberries, the remaining 3.5 cups sugar, and the lemon juice. Increase the heat to medium high and bring to a boil, stirring often. Reduce the heat to medium low and simmer for about 40 minutes, until the liquid is syrupy and the peaches are soft and chunky. Skim off any foam.

3. Ladle into sterilized jars. Attach the lids. Process the jars for 10 minutes. Place a kitchen towel on your work surface. Using tongs, transfer jars to the towel to cool, undisturbed, for 24 hours.

Radish Relish

adapted from Sherri Vinton’s “Put ‘em Up!”
2 cups distilled white vinegar
1 1/2 cups sugar
1 tablespoon kosher salt
1 tablespoon whole coriander
1 tablespoon cumin seed
1 tablespoon yellow mustard seed
2 pounds radishes, shredded*
1 cup diced onion*
1 (2-inch) knob ginger, peeled and grated*
2 garlic cloves, minced
(* I grated these in a food processor. Saves a lot of energy)

Combine the first 6 ingredients in a large saucepan and bring to a boil. Add the remaining ingredients and return to a boil, stirring to ensure that all ingredients are heated through. Remove from the heat.

Use the boiling-water method. Ladle into half-pint canning jars, covering the solids by 1/4 with liquid. Leave 1/4 inch of headspace. Release trapped air. Wipe the rim clean; center lids on the jars and screw on jar bands. Process for 15 minutes. Turn off heat, remove canner lid, and let jars rest in the water for 5 minutes. Remove jars and set aside for 24 hours. Check seals, then store in a cool, dark place for up to 1 year.