Baking with Lisa -

March23rd

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Places: Comet Coffee

Posted in: Coffee Shops, Places

At least once a week, I stop by Ann Arbor’s Comet Coffee. A short, pleasant walk from my office can have me there in five minutes. This is not a place I visit for quotidian caffeine supplements; rather, it is somewhere I go for pleasure- a brief escape from my workday.

Comet Coffee. 16 Nickels Arcade, Ann Arbor, MI 48104
734.222.0579 | Facebook | Twitter | Yelp

Admittedly, I was pre-disposed to like this place. It is nearby. It is aesthetically pleasing. It has a limited menu of coffee drinks and locally made pastries (some from Pastry Peddler, on occasion some from Miette). And, perhaps most importantly, the baristas make consistently good macchiatos ($2.76), which they’ll serve you with a glass of still or sparkling water. If you’re not in the mood for a flaky croissant or a plate-sized oatmeal cookie studded with dried fruit, coconut, pecans, and chocolate chunks, you can order one of the bite-sized Ossi da Mordere ($.50) to sit on the edge of your saucer.

So, how is it that this coffee shop gets alternately lauded (by even the New York Times) and derided (as in this worth-reading coffee roundup from A2Gastroboy)? I believe it is a matter of customer expectations and coffee rituals. Not everyone wants the same thing. Here is my quick take on people who do and don’t like Comet:

If you’ve never been there before, try visiting during a less-busy time (avoid beginning of workday and lunch hour). And if you’re getting something to go, consider bringing your own mug (you’ll get a nominal discount, and your beverage will stay much hotter than it will in the takeaway cups).

For a little more about the business, try this article from the Michigan Daily.
March20th

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Books: Kate Zuckerman’s The Sweet Life

Posted in: Cookbooks, Things

Zuckerman, Kate (text) & Tina Rupp (photogs.). The Sweet Life: Desserts from Chanterelle. Bulfinch. Oct. 2006. 224p. photogs. index. ISBN 0821257447. $35. [AMAZON]

I’ve heard that on average, people make only two recipes out of each cookbook they own. I can’t verify this statistic, but I wouldn’t be surprised if it were true. In my own rapidly expanding collection, there are piles of cookbooks I’ve never cooked from. But for every few titles i’ve only read, there will be one whose frequent use is written upon its pages in spilled cake batter and chocolate fingerprints.

After I made this Cinnamon Caramel Mousse, I took a look through my old photographs and realized i’ve made at least twelve recipes out of The Sweet Life. It was a birthday gift from my mother, given to me a few months after its release. At the time, I didn’t have much pastry experience. I quickly grew to appreciate the book for its neat organization, sophisticated recipes, soundly explained techniques, gorgeous photographs*, and consistent results. (*Tina Rupp also photographed Poliafito & Lewis’s Baked and Baked Explorations. You can see some examples of her work on her portfolio, or this great post from DesignSponge.)

I have yet to make a recipe from it that I didn’t love, and if that’s not enough endorsement, my husband (who has next to no baking experience) managed to whip up the Chocolate Caramel Tart while I was away at a conference. Zuckerman’s emphasis on instruction is, in my opinion, one of this book’s greatest strengths.

For your enjoyment, here’s a slideshow of nearly everything i’ve made out of this book:

Get the flash player here: http://www.adobe.com/flashplayer
March7th

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François Pralus Boite de Mexicaines

Posted in: Gifts & Specialty, Things

François Pralus is a French chocolatier whose company manufactures and sells nearly 100 tons of chocolate annually. In 2007, the only place I could find any of this chocolate was Mon Aimee Chocolat, a retailer in Pittsburgh’s Strip District that began stocking his colorfully wrapped pyramids of single-origin bars. I stared wistfully at the packaging for months, until they started selling a miniature version. At 1/10th the size of the original, it was a treat that fit within my limited student grocery budget.

The second time I encountered Pralus chocolates was a year later when I visited Paris for, among other things, the Salon du Chocolat. There, Pralus had transformed their small booth into a functioning bakery, cranking out loaves upon loaves of Praluline, a brioche studded with pink pralined almonds.

Now, Pralus products are much more easily obtained. There’s even a Trader Joe’s copycat. Here in Ann Arbor, Zingerman’s Next Door has a great selection, and they’ll let you try anything before you buy, which may or may not be a good thing- a free sample convinced me to buy the Barre Infernale Lait, a hefty brick of hazelnut cream enrobed in their exceptional 45% milk chocolate (here’s a nice review from Chocablog). At around $20, it is the single most expensive confection i’ve ever purchased.

The latest treat i’ve sampled is the above-pictured Boite de Mexicaines, which I received for Valentines Day. It’s an elegant box of roasted Valencia almonds coated in 75% chocolate and dusted with cocoa (there’s also a milk chocolate-hazelnut variety). If you enjoy chocolate coated nuts, they are a luxury that will outshine any waxy, lecithin-laced versions you’ve had in the past.
January26th

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Perfect (for me) French Toast

Posted in: Bread

I usually eat breakfast alone. If that sounds lonely, a quick peek at Simply Breakfast can teach you that solo breakfasts are an art form- intimate, meditative moments where coffee and toast become the stuff of ceremony. (Sometimes solo breakfast is a floppy packet of microwaveable oatmeal, but i’m not going to go there).

My normal routine is as follows: I turn on the coffee machine and make a cup of coffee, which I drink while making breakfast (oatmeal, rye toast, or yogurt, or a hybrid I like to call “toastmeal” or “toastgurt”). When I sit down to table there’s half a cup of coffee left, and just enough time to enjoy before I make the mad dash to the bus stop.

The other morning, though, I wanted something different. With two stale loaves of Zingerman’s challah on hand, it seemed a crime not to make French toast. But, I wasn’t sure where to begin, because my idea of French toast has evolved considerably since it sprang into existence on a plate in my parents’ kitchen. I didn’t want the kind of French toast that is essentially a piece of bread with an egg fried on the outside- I wanted the creme brulee French toast from my beloved (and now closed ) Cafe Mozart.

Sadly, this French toast is not that French toast*. It is, however, the perfect French toast for me right now. Made with half-and-half, it’s not quite as guilt inducing as the “Bell-less, Whistle-less Damn Good French Toast” from food52, and the recipe has enough (easy) steps that you feel like you’re actually making something special, not just dunking a slice of bread in some egg. Because the toast gets a last-minute bake in the oven, it ends up with crisp edges, which are a lovely contrast to the custardy interior. My first batch came out a little dry, so I recommend taking liberties with the soaking time, and adding plenty of maple syrup or fruit topping.

(*please tell me I did not just reference an Old Spice commercial while discussing French toast…)
…continue for recipes
December16th

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A Trio of Christmas Cookies

Posted in: Cookies & Candies

I told myself I wasn’t going to make Christmas cookies this year. It’s too hard, I thought. I don’t have enough time. Then, in the middle of thinking about how much I didn’t want to make cookies, I found myself driving to the store to buy decorative tins and ingredients for three kinds of holiday treats. It sortof felt like holiday auto-pilot.

It’s easy to go on baking auto-pilot when you’re using easy, familiar recipes. These Lemon Bars and Ginger Crackles come together in less than half an hour, and the Chocolate Mousse Cookies are much less work than similar sorts of ‘chocolate brownie cookies’ that call for long whipping and dough resting times. In the end, they didn’t take much time at all.

With all three of these recipes, you’ll spend most of your time waiting for things to bake or cool. Two are from Abby Dodge’s website (Dodge’s The Weekend Baker is one of my favorites, and she has a new book in the works!), and the other is one of my family’s favourites. If you’re struggling to find some last minute Christmas cookie ideas, give one of these a try.

1) Lemon Bars

2) Ginger Crackles

3) Irene Double Chocolate Mousse Cookies
December9th

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2011 Edible Gifts for Foodies

Posted in: Things

In last year’s roundup, I suggested 8 types of gifts to please your foodie friends and relatives. That list is still a good guideline- in fact, everything on this year’s list fits into one of those categories. So, without further ado, here are eight of my favorite products from 2011:

1. Salted Caramel Bar from Xocolatl de David
www.xocolatldedavid.com, $9
To my knowledge, Xocolatl de David is still a one-man operation helmed by David Briggs, a CIA grad based in Portland, Oregon. I happened upon his Salted Caramel Bar at DeLaurenti, an Italian market in Seattle. It’s one of the best dark chocolate bars i’ve had in a while- in mirror-bright perfect temper and filled with a toothsome salted caramel (there are some great pictures on www.ourfoodshed.com.) If you want something savory, try the Almond & Pimenton bar (but be warned, the smoked paprika flavor is strong).

2. Bahlsen Contessa Minis
www.germandeli.com, $3.39 [currently out of stock]
I’m a long-time fan of Bahlsen’s Contessas, a seasonal sugar-crusted, chocolate-bottomed Lebkuchen. I used to think these gingerbread cookies were obscure, until I realized for three years running i’ve only been able to make one purchase before my usual sources run out of stock. Lately I prefer the mini Contessas to the full-sized. They’re great alongside a cup of coffee.

3. Chocolate Marshmallows from Zingerman’s
www.zingermans.com, $25
The chocolate marshmallows are the star of this half-chocolate, half-vanilla gift box. Made with Scharffen Berger cocoa and studded with chocolate chunks, they are hard to resist (I went through an entire bag in about two days). With a peppermint hot cocoa? Heaven. Looking for more flavors? Try Little Flower Candy Co. or Pittsburgh Marshmallow Factory.

4. Preserves from Blue Chair Fruit
bluechairfruit.com, $12+
Sometimes, cookbooks lead me to a food product. In this case, the unique flavors in Rachel Saunders’ massive The Blue Chair Jam Cookbook piqued my interest in her company, and i’m pleased to report that these preserves are as tasty as they look. If you’re looking to impress a preserves-lover, spring for a Jam Club subscription.

5. Ice Cream from Jeni’s Splendid Ice Creams
jenisicecreams.com, $12+
Jeni’s Splendid Ice Creams at Home was one of my top cookbook picks of the year. After working my way, pint by pint, through the Jeni’s selection at Plum Market and The Produce Station, I made a 3 hour pilgrimage to the scoop shop in Chagrin Falls, Ohio to try her holiday flavors. My personal favorite flavors? Black Forest, Brown Butter Almond Brittle, Brambleberry Crisp, and Lemon Blueberry Frozen Yogurt.

6. Delice de Pommard
www.dibruno.com, $14.99
I have no experience buying cheese online, but I am tempted to try it to get ahold of this mustard-coated, soft cow’s milk cheese from Burgundy. It was an October special at Zingerman’s which they’ve told me they’ll have again after the holidays.

7. Sour Cherry Spoon Fruit from American Spoon Foods
www.spoon.com, $8.50
Since many jams, jellies, and preserves are too sweet for my tastes, I was happy to find this tart cherry ‘spoon fruit.’ Made in Northern Michigan, this cherry-studded spread holds its own on strong flavored breads like rye and pumpernickel. I really want to try it on pancakes!

8. Pralus Barre Infernale Lait
chefshop.com, $19-22
When I asked a Zingerman’s staff member if I could try this chocolate bar, he said “are you sure? It’s dangerous.” He was right- one bite and I knew I couldn’t leave without one. The price tag is steep, but it’s a big bar- a 6.4oz brick of hazelnut-studded praline, coated in the same milk chocolate they use for their fantastic Melissa bars. If you like gianduja and want a slightly cheaper alternative, try Sperlari’s Zanzibar Gianduja Classico (pictured in this post from Serious Eats).
December6th

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Vegan Apple Pie

Posted in: Pies & Tarts

Before Thanksgiving, someone (a non-vegan) asked me what kind of pies I was making. My first response (pumpkin) received an mmm of approval. My second response (vegan apple, with an olive oil crust) was met with a look of disgusted incomprehension.

I was uneasy about the olive oil too. For a long time, I considered both vegan baking and gluten-free baking to be, well, inferior. Now, I think it’s more appropriate to say they are scary, particularly for someone who has never tried.

Now, pretend I had never mentioned olive oil. Does this pie look any different from your average buttery, lardy pie?

Not really. And while the crust certainly tasted differently, it was still a flaky, crisp, complement to the tart apple filling. To my genuine surprise, at a ten-person Thanksgiving dinner with one vegan in attendance, this was the pie everyone wanted, and it was the only dessert to be eaten in its entirety.

If you have never tried vegan baking, I have a few suggestions.
1) Start simple. Don’t pick the strangest, most tricked-out multi-flavor vegan cheesecake you can find.
2) Find a good recipe. Ask your vegan friends for cookbook recommendations, or find a blog/website that seems reputable. Don’t just pick the first thing you found on Google.
3) Don’t get discouraged. Just because one recipe turns out badly doesn’t mean you should forego all vegan baking. Give yourself some time to figure out what you like and how to use potentially unfamiliar ingredients.

I picked this recipe because I’ve had success with Isa Chandra Moskowitz and Terry Hope Romero’s recipes, and olive oil is more appetizing to me than vegan shortening and margarine products. I hope you enjoy it!
…continue for recipes
November17th

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Pumpkin Cheese Bread

Posted in: Bread

When I think about Thanksgiving, the bread basket isn’t the first thing on my mind. Why would I want to think about bread, when there’s turkey, stuffing, and pie to be eaten? Bread can be special (some exceptional restaurant bread baskets come to mind), but in my own Thanksgiving history it has usually taken the form of hard, hockey pucks of JIFFY cornbread, often burnt on one side due to temperamental baking pans. Admittedly, I remember those muffins with a certain fondness, but I’m not itching to recreate them.

What i’m trying to say is, it’s very unlike me to be baking bread this close to Thanksgiving. But when a friend asked if I knew a good recipe for yeasted pumpkin bread, I couldn’t stop thinking about it. The only non-dessert pumpkin bread I could remember liking was a pumpkin pepita loaf from Pittsburgh’s Whole Foods Market (do they still make that?). The others I recalled were dense and tasteless.

The memory of those latter pumpkin breads made me wary of online recipes (though this no-knead version looks a tempting), so I turned instead to The Beekman 1802 Heirloom Cookbook (a current favourite from my collection), which has a Pumpkin Cheese Bread within the fall side dishes. I am thrilled with how it turned out. Can you imagine this toasted and topped with Sour Cherry Spoon Fruit or pepper jelly? Or french-toasted with sauteed apples? Or as a vehicle for mopping up cranberry sauce? Or as the base of a Thanksgiving leftovers sandwich? I certainly can (and have).

Some notes: much of this bread’s flavor comes from the cheese. I used sharp cheddar, but I think medium would be a better choice if you don’t want to lose pumpkin flavor. The cayenne is subtle, so increase it if you want more spice. Check the loaf a bit over halfway through the baking time- if the top is browning too much, cover it with foil.

Next time, I think I’m adding jalapenos.
…continue for recipes
August28th

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Birmingham Trip: Day One

Posted in: Coffee Shops, Places

I recently spent a weekend in Birmingham, Alabama, on a mission to try some new eateries and revisit some old favorites. Friday’s highlights included the above macchiato from Primavera Coffee Roasters, accompanied by phenomenal pastries from Mix, Chris Dupont’s downtown bakery/cafe (tragically, only open on weekdays from around 7-4).

Day one’s destinations (in order) were Camp Taco, Mix, Primavera, Hot & Hot Fish Club, and the Highlands Bar & Grill. See additional photos and commentary after the jump!
…continue for recipes
June5th

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Rhubarb, Strawberry & Cherry Preserves

Posted in: Jams & Preserves

Lately, I start my Saturdays with canning and bread baking.

I used to avoid these activities because I thought they would take too much time. I’d been in the habit of making easy, tasty recipes that required little effort or planning. Somehow i’d forgotten that in many cases, the harder you work, the more satisfying the finished product is (a concept that applies to more than cooking). After a few weeks of canning, i’ve grown increasingly attached to my small collection of jams and preserves- so much so that I get a little sad when my husband polishes off a jar.

Here’s how my current canning schedule works: On Thursdays, I buy fruit that looks good. If i’m not going to can in the next few days, I prep and freeze it. I pick a recipe from my growing pile of canning books and go to the store for supplementary ingredients (jars, lemons, etc). On Saturday morning, I wake up, eat breakfast, do some small batch canning, then make bread. While the bread is rising and baking, I clean up the apartment. When the bread’s done, I keep one loaf for eating and freeze the other. It’s really satisfying. Breakfast is my favorite meal of the day, and it seems like a luxury to have a selection of homemade breads and jams to choose from. Lately i’ve been eating yogurt mixed with peach-vanilla preserves, with toasted almonds on top.

This recipe for rhubarb, strawberry & cherry preserves is my favorite so far. It’s not too sweet and the fruit doesn’t completely disintegrate. The texture was perfect: juicy and just set enough to not run off your toast. I’m hoping to make it again, but I fear our strawberry season is pretty much over
…continue for recipes