Baking with Lisa
  • January26th

    French Toast

    I usually eat breakfast alone. If that sounds lonely, a quick peek at Simply Breakfast can teach you that solo breakfasts are an art form- intimate, meditative moments where coffee and toast become the stuff of ceremony. (Sometimes solo breakfast is a floppy packet of microwaveable oatmeal, but i’m not going to go there).

    My normal routine is as follows: I turn on the coffee machine and make a cup of coffee, which I drink while making breakfast (oatmeal, rye toast, or yogurt, or a hybrid I like to call “toastmeal” or “toastgurt”). When I sit down to table there’s half a cup of coffee left, and just enough time to enjoy before I make the mad dash to the bus stop.

    The other morning, though, I wanted something different. With two stale loaves of Zingerman’s challah on hand, it seemed a crime not to make French toast. But, I wasn’t sure where to begin, because my idea of French toast has evolved considerably since it sprang into existence on a plate in my parents’ kitchen. I didn’t want the kind of French toast that is essentially a piece of bread with an egg fried on the outside- I wanted the creme brulee French toast from my beloved (and now closed :( ) Cafe Mozart.

    Sadly, this French toast is not that French toast*. It is, however, the perfect French toast for me right now. Made with half-and-half, it’s not quite as guilt inducing as the “Bell-less, Whistle-less Damn Good French Toast” from food52, and the recipe has enough (easy) steps that you feel like you’re actually making something special, not just dunking a slice of bread in some egg. Because the toast gets a last-minute bake in the oven, it ends up with crisp edges, which are a lovely contrast to the custardy interior. My first batch came out a little dry, so I recommend taking liberties with the soaking time, and adding plenty of maple syrup or fruit topping.

    (*please tell me I did not just reference an Old Spice commercial while discussing French toast…)
    …continue for recipes

  • December16th

    Christmas Cookies

    Christmas Cookies

    I told myself I wasn’t going to make Christmas cookies this year. It’s too hard, I thought. I don’t have enough time. Then, in the middle of thinking about how much I didn’t want to make cookies, I found myself driving to the store to buy decorative tins and ingredients for three kinds of holiday treats. It sortof felt like holiday auto-pilot.

    It’s easy to go on baking auto-pilot when you’re using easy, familiar recipes. These Lemon Bars and Ginger Crackles come together in less than half an hour, and the Chocolate Mousse Cookies are much less work than similar sorts of ‘chocolate brownie cookies’ that call for long whipping and dough resting times. In the end, they didn’t take much time at all.

    With all three of these recipes, you’ll spend most of your time waiting for things to bake or cool. Two are from Abby Dodge’s website (Dodge’s The Weekend Baker is one of my favorites, and she has a new book in the works!), and the other is one of my family’s favourites. If you’re struggling to find some last minute Christmas cookie ideas, give one of these a try.

    1) Lemon Bars

    2) Ginger Crackles

    3) Irene Double Chocolate Mousse Cookies

  • December9th

    White Nectarine & Elderflower Preserves

    Bars from Xocolatl de David

    In last year’s roundup, I suggested 8 types of gifts to please your foodie friends and relatives. That list is still a good guideline- in fact, everything on this year’s list fits into one of those categories. So, without further ado, here are eight of my favorite products from 2011:

    1. Salted Caramel Bar from Xocolatl de David
    www.xocolatldedavid.com, $9
    To my knowledge, Xocolatl de David is still a one-man operation helmed by David Briggs, a CIA grad based in Portland, Oregon. I happened upon his Salted Caramel Bar at DeLaurenti, an Italian market in Seattle. It’s one of the best dark chocolate bars i’ve had in a while- in mirror-bright perfect temper and filled with a toothsome salted caramel (there are some great pictures on www.ourfoodshed.com.) If you want something savory, try the Almond & Pimenton bar (but be warned, the smoked paprika flavor is strong).

    2. Bahlsen Contessa Minis
    www.germandeli.com, $3.39 [currently out of stock]
    I’m a long-time fan of Bahlsen’s Contessas, a seasonal sugar-crusted, chocolate-bottomed Lebkuchen. I used to think these gingerbread cookies were obscure, until I realized for three years running i’ve only been able to make one purchase before my usual sources run out of stock. Lately I prefer the mini Contessas to the full-sized. They’re great alongside a cup of coffee.

    3. Chocolate Marshmallows from Zingerman’s
    www.zingermans.com, $25
    The chocolate marshmallows are the star of this half-chocolate, half-vanilla gift box. Made with Scharffen Berger cocoa and studded with chocolate chunks, they are hard to resist (I went through an entire bag in about two days). With a peppermint hot cocoa? Heaven. Looking for more flavors? Try Little Flower Candy Co. or Pittsburgh Marshmallow Factory.

    4. Preserves from Blue Chair Fruit
    bluechairfruit.com, $12+
    Sometimes, cookbooks lead me to a food product. In this case, the unique flavors in Rachel Saunders’ massive The Blue Chair Jam Cookbook piqued my interest in her company, and i’m pleased to report that these preserves are as tasty as they look. If you’re looking to impress a preserves-lover, spring for a Jam Club subscription.

    5. Ice Cream from Jeni’s Splendid Ice Creams
    jenisicecreams.com, $12+
    Jeni’s Splendid Ice Creams at Home was one of my top cookbook picks of the year. After working my way, pint by pint, through the Jeni’s selection at Plum Market and The Produce Station, I made a 3 hour pilgrimage to the scoop shop in Chagrin Falls, Ohio to try her holiday flavors. My personal favorite flavors? Black Forest, Brown Butter Almond Brittle, Brambleberry Crisp, and Lemon Blueberry Frozen Yogurt.

    6. Delice de Pommard
    www.dibruno.com, $14.99
    I have no experience buying cheese online, but I am tempted to try it to get ahold of this mustard-coated, soft cow’s milk cheese from Burgundy. It was an October special at Zingerman’s which they’ve told me they’ll have again after the holidays.

    7. Sour Cherry Spoon Fruit from American Spoon Foods
    www.spoon.com, $8.50
    Since many jams, jellies, and preserves are too sweet for my tastes, I was happy to find this tart cherry ‘spoon fruit.’ Made in Northern Michigan, this cherry-studded spread holds its own on strong flavored breads like rye and pumpernickel. I really want to try it on pancakes!

    8. Pralus Barre Infernale Lait
    chefshop.com, $19-22
    When I asked a Zingerman’s staff member if I could try this chocolate bar, he said “are you sure? It’s dangerous.” He was right- one bite and I knew I couldn’t leave without one. The price tag is steep, but it’s a big bar- a 6.4oz brick of hazelnut-studded praline, coated in the same milk chocolate they use for their fantastic Melissa bars. If you like gianduja and want a slightly cheaper alternative, try Sperlari’s Zanzibar Gianduja Classico (pictured in this post from Serious Eats).

  • December6th

    Before Thanksgiving, someone (a non-vegan) asked me what kind of pies I was making. My first response (pumpkin) received an mmm of approval. My second response (vegan apple, with an olive oil crust) was met with a look of disgusted incomprehension.

    I was uneasy about the olive oil too. For a long time, I considered both vegan baking and gluten-free baking to be, well, inferior. Now, I think it’s more appropriate to say they are scary, particularly for someone who has never tried.

    Now, pretend I had never mentioned olive oil. Does this pie look any different from your average buttery, lardy pie?

    Vegan Apple Pie

    Vegan Apple Pie

    Not really. And while the crust certainly tasted differently, it was still a flaky, crisp, complement to the tart apple filling. To my genuine surprise, at a ten-person Thanksgiving dinner with one vegan in attendance, this was the pie everyone wanted, and it was the only dessert to be eaten in its entirety.

    If you have never tried vegan baking, I have a few suggestions.
    1) Start simple. Don’t pick the strangest, most tricked-out multi-flavor vegan cheesecake you can find.
    2) Find a good recipe. Ask your vegan friends for cookbook recommendations, or find a blog/website that seems reputable. Don’t just pick the first thing you found on Google.
    3) Don’t get discouraged. Just because one recipe turns out badly doesn’t mean you should forego all vegan baking. Give yourself some time to figure out what you like and how to use potentially unfamiliar ingredients.

    I picked this recipe because I’ve had success with Isa Chandra Moskowitz and Terry Hope Romero’s recipes, and olive oil is more appetizing to me than vegan shortening and margarine products. I hope you enjoy it!
    …continue for recipes

  • November17th

    Pumpkin Cheddar Loaf

    When I think about Thanksgiving, the bread basket isn’t the first thing on my mind. Why would I want to think about bread, when there’s turkey, stuffing, and pie to be eaten? Bread can be special (some exceptional restaurant bread baskets come to mind), but in my own Thanksgiving history it has usually taken the form of hard, hockey pucks of JIFFY cornbread, often burnt on one side due to temperamental baking pans. Admittedly, I remember those muffins with a certain fondness, but I’m not itching to recreate them.

    What i’m trying to say is, it’s very unlike me to be baking bread this close to Thanksgiving. But when a friend asked if I knew a good recipe for yeasted pumpkin bread, I couldn’t stop thinking about it. The only non-dessert pumpkin bread I could remember liking was a pumpkin pepita loaf from Pittsburgh’s Whole Foods Market (do they still make that?). The others I recalled were dense and tasteless.

    The memory of those latter pumpkin breads made me wary of online recipes (though this no-knead version looks a tempting), so I turned instead to The Beekman 1802 Heirloom Cookbook (a current favourite from my collection), which has a Pumpkin Cheese Bread within the fall side dishes. I am thrilled with how it turned out. Can you imagine this toasted and topped with Sour Cherry Spoon Fruit or pepper jelly? Or french-toasted with sauteed apples? Or as a vehicle for mopping up cranberry sauce? Or as the base of a Thanksgiving leftovers sandwich? I certainly can (and have).

    Some notes: much of this bread’s flavor comes from the cheese. I used sharp cheddar, but I think medium would be a better choice if you don’t want to lose pumpkin flavor. The cayenne is subtle, so increase it if you want more spice. Check the loaf a bit over halfway through the baking time- if the top is browning too much, cover it with foil.

    Next time, I think I’m adding jalapenos.
    …continue for recipes

  • August28th

    Macchiato

    I recently spent a weekend in Birmingham, Alabama, on a mission to try some new eateries and revisit some old favorites. Friday’s highlights included the above macchiato from Primavera Coffee Roasters, accompanied by phenomenal pastries from Mix, Chris Dupont’s downtown bakery/cafe (tragically, only open on weekdays from around 7-4).

    Day one’s destinations (in order) were Camp Taco, Mix, Primavera, Hot & Hot Fish Club, and the Highlands Bar & Grill. See additional photos and commentary after the jump!
    …continue for recipes

  • June5th

    Lately, I start my Saturdays with canning and bread baking.

    Homemade Bread & Jam

    I used to avoid these activities because I thought they would take too much time. I’d been in the habit of making easy, tasty recipes that required little effort or planning. Somehow i’d forgotten that in many cases, the harder you work, the more satisfying the finished product is (a concept that applies to more than cooking). After a few weeks of canning, i’ve grown increasingly attached to my small collection of jams and preserves- so much so that I get a little sad when my husband polishes off a jar.

    Homemade bread and jam

    Here’s how my current canning schedule works: On Thursdays, I buy fruit that looks good. If i’m not going to can in the next few days, I prep and freeze it. I pick a recipe from my growing pile of canning books and go to the store for supplementary ingredients (jars, lemons, etc). On Saturday morning, I wake up, eat breakfast, do some small batch canning, then make bread. While the bread is rising and baking, I clean up the apartment. When the bread’s done, I keep one loaf for eating and freeze the other. It’s really satisfying. Breakfast is my favorite meal of the day, and it seems like a luxury to have a selection of homemade breads and jams to choose from. Lately i’ve been eating yogurt mixed with peach-vanilla preserves, with toasted almonds on top.

    This recipe for rhubarb, strawberry & cherry preserves is my favorite so far. It’s not too sweet and the fruit doesn’t completely disintegrate. The texture was perfect: juicy and just set enough to not run off your toast. I’m hoping to make it again, but I fear our strawberry season is pretty much over :(
    …continue for recipes

  • June2nd

    Brioche

    Posted in: Bread

    This weekend, I made brioche. I made the dough with help from a friend. We discovered, belatedly, that it was a two day affair, so I shaped and proofed the loaves the following day. After a few hours in the hot, humid Alabama weather on my porch, they looked like this:

    Proofed Brioche

    I slipped both pans into the oven and stayed in the kitchen to watch them bake. I keep a little Ikea footstool near the dishwasher- primarily for reaching high-up baking pans, but also for sitting on and watching what’s happening in the oven.

    My favorite show.

    If your entire apartment smelled like fresh baked brioche, you’d be this happy too.

    Best seat in the house.

    …continue for recipes

  • May17th

    Strawberry-Peach Preserves

    Last Thursday I visited the Homegrown Alabama farmers market. Quite fortuitously, they had a good selection of strawberries and early season peaches- two fruits i’d been looking for since receiving my copy of Sarabeth’s Bakery: From my Hands to Yours, which includes a recipe for her Strawberry Peach spreadable fruit. I canned about six half-pints, and we’ve eaten our way through one of them (plus two sticks of salted Irish butter) in less than a week. They are excellent on the above-pictured French sandwich bread from the Continental Bakery and equally good on rosemary bread.

    This was my first experience canning with proper equipment, and it was significantly less stressful than my previous attempts. The most onerous steps were prepping the fruit and waiting for the water to boil for jar sterilizing and processing. I’m beginning to think that what intimidates me about canning is not food safety, but cost. With baking, it’s easy to add things like butter and sugar to my weekly grocery list and not notice how they’re impacting my budget. I also have equipment i’ve collected over the past decade. Canning has lots of up-front costs. It also requires storage space for both the equipment and the finished product.

    I’ve started reading Food in Jars, which may be my new favorite blog. It has extremely helpful tips and equipment reviews, and lots of step by step photos of how to do all these things. I’m not sure I will ever be that prolific a canner- but i’d like to at least learn enough to be creative and produce the flavors/textures I enjoy. This recipe was fairly straightforward, though my cooking time was much longer (I think I had the heat too low).
    …continue for recipes

  • May13th

    Radish Relish

    I’m trying to learn to can with confidence. To me, canning is a foreign skill perfected by 50′s housewives, pioneer women, and their descendants. I’ve always thought of it as a means to save money or combat scarcity- not as a way to preserve seasonal bounty or enjoy the luxuries of ripe summer produce during the depths of winter.

    Maybe the tornado changed my mind. All week, i’ve been fantasizing about filling my cabinets with jams, jellies, pickles, relishes, and other condiments. I want something to spice up boring meals on the nights i’m too tired to cook. I want something to thrown on pancakes when there’s no syrup left in the fridge. So, I made learning to can a summer goal. I ordered a bunch of canning books from interlibrary loan and made a list of all the things i’d like to try.

    My first few attempts were slightly nerve-wracking. I wasn’t ready to invest in canning equipment, so I used a soup pot, some metal tongs, an impromptu canning rack made of jar rings, and a ladle. In my first three tries (two jams, one relish), I dropped a jar, I burned myself with boiling water, and I spilled 220 degree jam all over the outside of the container I was trying to put it in. Tiring of the potential for mess and injury, I bought an inexpensive canning set. I hear you can find those for much cheaper, so keep your eye out.

    This was the last recipe I made before acquiring canning equipment. It’s a tasty radish relish that’s great on steamed vegetables or fish. The recipe comes from Sherri Brooks Vinton’s Put ‘em Up!, which is a great book if you’re intimidated by canning and want to start with small batches. Canning & Preserving with Ashley English is another good title. It doesn’t have as many recipes, but it does a good job explaining techniques.

    Over the next few weeks i’ll try to keep you updated on my progress. I have several books and types of jars coming in, and i’m looking forward to experimenting.
    …continue for recipes